If he didn't have a propeller blade, he just threaded a spoon blade onto the leader through the hole.

I have yet to see any clevis used with one of his blades. My dad used to snip off a bit of my red locks to tie up a fly, and searched through his wife's yarn basket for just the right piece of yarn to tie behind a ball. I keep all my broken beaded necklaces for just that purpose. A woman's jewelery box is a prime source for a cobbled together, mismatched wedding ring lure. Just about anything can be added to a leader, including my latest pair of broken earrings. Having tried both 2's and 4's on the same configuration, it happened to be #3's that carried the day. Yet on many #4 blades it takes a #3 for the correct action. But, based on the amount of metal above the hole a # 2 clevis is the right choice for this application. Being a bigger blade one might assume a larger clevis should be needed. Recently I have been twisting up a grip of #7 Fatal Flash blades. Of course I advocate you test the action of your prototype to ensure the action and wobble (or lack of) fits your needs. Conversely if the distance is smaller than 1/2 a larger clevis is needed.Įstablishing a equal distance between wire and top of the blade (as it sits in the clevis saddle) will get you closer to the right clevis selection. if the distance is more then half way between the blade and the wire, a smaller clevis is in order. A way to verify the 'correct' clevis would be to check the distance between the wire and the amount of blade above the hole. However, choosing the correct clevis is also affected by the location of the hole punched into the blade.įor example, a hole punched close to the end of the blade might well require a smaller clevis than one punched further down the blade. I agree with most everything that has been said thus far.

Size 2 colorado blades